OCTOBER EDITORIAL

As the fashion world moves to Paris, let’s take stock of Milan Fashion Week, which gave us a preview of next Spring-Summer’s trends during a week marred by cold and rainy weather. A mix of powerful colors, 1980s nostalgia, unexpected layering, and tailoring are the codes that struck me most in the new collections—which, as always, reflect the times we live in: full of contradictions and even fears, in a difficult historical moment that certainly doesn’t help the market.

But perhaps because of this, many interesting and innovative insights were seen, both in terms of materials—increasingly natural, recycled, and sustainable—and in the general mood of no longer classifying outfits as strictly “daywear” or “eveningwear.” Today, the end customer can creatively mix casual pieces with super-glamorous details, creating their own style for every moment of the day.

The keyword is transformation, highlighted by the highly anticipated debuts of new designers at the helm of major brands, who did not disappoint. Louise Trotter celebrated Bottega Veneta’s craftsmanship and the art of weaving with special fringes made of recycled fiberglass, while Dario Vitale recreated a Versace style quite different from what we were used to: no sequins, slits, or red-carpet glamour, but rather sleeveless bomber-style vests paired with shimmering skirts, side-slit tank tops, high waists, and undone belts for a much more relaxed and differently sexy vision.

Demna at Gucci could have dazzled with special effects; instead, he wisely chose to present the new “Gucci Family” (and all its problems in a super-polished short film), pulling iconic pieces from the house archives and re-presenting them exactly as they were: logos, sequins, minis, and faux fur combined in a bold and confident mix. As if to say: we start here, but in the next one, you’ll see some real magic…

I absolutely loved the Tod’s show, now a master of a refined and chic style focused on precious leatherwork. Over-sized jackets (but not too much), loafers and low-heeled boots, comfortable and understated bags. The unmistakable signature of Italian sartorial elegance.

Tailoring was everywhere on the runway: in trench coats with bold shoulders layered over sharp jackets, in soft pleated trousers, and in sweaters draped over shoulders for an elegant yet relaxed take on power dressing.

But layering is perhaps the newest theme for the coming season: the idea of a layered but effortless silhouette is proposed by Loro Piana and Ferragamo in super-chic versions with tunics over skirts and trousers. However, it is from Marco Rambaldi that the most contemporary and romantic vision of this trend arrives: his rebellious lightheartedness revolutionizes layers, making underwear and tank tops the protagonists over other garments, with a crochet mix made of doilies, which he also uses to create wedding dresses.

I would also like to mention Francesco Murano and his sophisticated, essential, dynamic, and futuristic fashion, where garments dance with bodies; and Lorenzo Seghezzi, who presented a collection in Milan for the first time dedicated to the energy of the queer world. Keep these three names in mind: they are promising young designers supported by the Camera Nazionale della Moda’s Fashion Trust, of which Daniela and I are members.